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From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
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Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Companion and Working Dogs FAQ
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Date: 15 Dec 1992 18:59:22 GMT
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Archive-name: dogs-faq/working
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Last-modified: 25 September 1992

This is one (of ten) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The ten parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) in
the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, medical-info, training, working,
AKC-titles, misc1, misc2, and references.  To obtain the files, first
try ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp
does not work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
[e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/references

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.

This is still rough in some places.  In particular, I would like:
1) additional information on water rescue
2) additional info on dogs & frisbee & any other "game" activity

VI.  Companion and Working Dogs.

  A.  Dogs for the Blind
  B.  Hearing and Signal Dogs.
  C.  Canine Companions for Independence.
  D.  Therapy Dogs.
  E.  Search and Rescue Dogs.
  F.  Water Rescue Dogs.
  G.  Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.
  H.  Schutzhund.
  I.  Police Dogs.
  J.  Sled Dogs.
  K.  Gaming Dogs.


A.  Dogs for the Blind

My thanks to Rusty Wright for the information on Guide Dogs.

Dogs can be trained to accompany and guide blind people.  Most
commonly referred to as "Seeing Eye Dogs" or "Guide Dogs," there are
actually several organizations within the US and many abroad that
train dogs to guide the blind.

There are many organizations in the US that provide guide dogs for
blind people.  In the East it's The Seeing Eye (Morristown, NJ), and
in the West it's Guide Dogs for the Blind (San Rafael, CA).  There is
Leader Dogs for the Blind in the Michigan area.  Guide Dogs of the
Desert is a Southern California-based group.  [more detailed
addresses?]

Dogs guiding the blind must not only be able to guide their owner
through traffic, obstacles, etc, but also must ignore other people,
dogs, and distractions.  They are, by law in most places, allowed to
enter any building or establishment.

1.  Guide Dogs for the Blind [US]

Guide Dogs got started in 1942.  It costs them about $40,000 per dog.
This reflects how much money they get in donations: to arrive at this
figure they take their total yearly operating costs and divide it by
the number of successful dogs they produce.

The breeds used by Guide Dogs are black and yellow Labs, Golden
Retriever, and German Shepherd.  The males and females used for
breeding live in homes as regular "pets."  They go back to Guide Dogs
to be bred and the females go back when they're in season even if they
aren't going to be bred.  The females are bred once a year.  The
females also go back to whelp and raise their puppies in the Guide Dog
kennels.  All of these breeders live in homes within a 50 mile radius
of Guide Dogs.

Families who raise the puppies simply train them in basic dog
obedience, and stress lots of socialization and good manners.  For
example, if you go to a dog show, you are likely to see several such
puppies there, learning to take it all in stride.  The dogs go back
for their formal training when they're about 1.5 years old, although
they can go back as young as 1.0 year old.

Children are preferred as puppy raisers, hence the coordination with
4-H.  Interestingly enough, the puppies raised by kids are more likely
to make it through the formal guide dog training.  The difference is
not drastic, but is "significant."

When dogs go back for their training they're carefully screened for
any hip abnormalities.  If the hips aren't very good they're
immediately "retired."  The formal training takes about 6 months.
During this time they live in the kennels at Guide Dogs.  During their
formal training they get a letter grade (A-F) each week.  Dogs can
fail for a variety of reasons.  As you might guess, some dogs don't
transition well from living in a puppy raiser's home to living in the
kennels and just get stressed out and fail.  The puppy raiser gets the
option of keeping a dog that failed.  If the puppy raiser can't keep
the dog they can place it in a home.  The puppy raiser can also let
Guide Dogs place the dog; the waiting list is at least 3 years long.

Before a guide dog is given to a blind person the blind person must
attend training at Guide Dogs.  This training is 4 weeks long.  During
this time the blind person lives in the dorms at Guide Dogs.  There
are about 12 people in each 4-week class.  The first week of training
is without the dog.  During the last week of training they make field
trips to downtown San Francisco.  People coming back to get a
replacement dog take a two week "refresher" class.  A graduation
ceremony is held on Saturday at 1pm, every 4 weeks at Guide Dogs for
the Blind in San Rafael.  The puppy raisers come to the graduation
ceremony and each puppy raiser formally presents the guide dog they
raised to the blind person.  (As you can imagine, it's a rather
tearful ceremony.)  The public is welcome to come to the graduations;
they are held outdoors and attire is casual.  After the graduation
ceremony there is a demonstration of a working guide dog and tours of
the kennels and facilities.

Guide Dogs for the Blind is a completely non-profit organization and
survives entirely on donations.  The blind people don't pay any money
for the guide dog.  The guide dog is still owned by Guide Dogs while
the blind person has it; there have been occasional cases where the
blind person just wasn't equipped or prepared to have a dog and the
dog is returned to Guide Dogs.  Guide Dogs makes a yearly visit with
each blind person that has one of their dogs to check on the dog's
health, behavior, etc.

2.  Statens Hundskola [Sweden]

In Sweden (Statens Hundskola) they screen the dogs at least twice, the
first time just before sexual maturity to determine if a male dog will
be neutered.  Their main problem is that so many dogs wind up
unsuitable, so they are starting an education programme for the people
who take care of the puppies.

[I envision sections on Seeing Eye, UK Guide dogs, etc, being added.]

3.  References

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J.  _The new knowledge of dog behavior_.
Foreword by J. P. Scott.  Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.
New York, Howell Book House, 1963.
  Gives an excellent history of how Guide Dogs was started, and has
  other interesting information.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. _Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training_.  Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub.  Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
  Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
  coordination, and so forth.  Includes a history of the organization.

Harrington, Paula.  _Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind_. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
  This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
  photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
  (both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
  lots of other stuff.


B.  Hearing and Signal Dogs.

Other dogs are trained to assist deaf people.  They alert their owner
to a variety of sounds, usually by coming up to the person and going
back to the source of the sound.  They will signal on door bell and
knocking, phones, smoke alarms, crying babies and much more.  They are
licensed as are guide dogs and are to be permitted anywhere,
although since they are not as widely recognized, their owners often
have to display their permit.

There are several organizations that train hearing dogs; CCI (below)
is one of them.  Others (I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the
addresses except where noted):

  * American Humane Association, 5351 S. Roslyn Street, Englewood,
    Colorado 80111.  (303-779-1400.
  * Audio Dogs, 27 Crescent Street, Brooklyn, New York 11208.
    212-827-2792.
  * Dogs for the Deaf, Applegate Behavior Station, 13260 Highway 238,
    Jacksonville, Oregon 97530.  503-899-7177.
  * Guide Dog Foundation, 371 Jericho Turnpike, Smithtown, New York
    11787. 516-265-2121.
  * Hearing Dog, Inc., Agnes McGrath, Director; 5901 E. 89 Ave.,
    Henderson, Colorado 80640.  303-287-3277 (voice/tty).
  * NEADS (New England Assistance Dog Service), P.O. Box 213, West
    Boylston, Massachusetts 01583.  508-835-3304 (TT/voice).  Verified
    May '92.
  * San Francisco SPCA, Hearing Dog Program, 2500 16th Street, San
    Francisco, CA 94103.  415-554-3020.  Verified March '92.

An organization that teaches deaf people to train their own dogs:

  * Handi-Dogs, Inc., PO Box 12563, Tucson, Arizona 85732.  602-326-3412
    or 602-325-6466.


C.  Canine Companions for Independence.

CCI was founded in 1975.  They estimate that each of their dogs takes
about $20,000 to train, a cost covered by donations and volunteer
work.  It is a national-wide organization with many regional chapters.

National Headquarters            NW Regional Center
4350 Occidental Road            1215 Sebastopol Road
P.O. Box 446                Santa Rosa, CA 95407-6834
Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446        707-579-1985 V/TDD
702-528-0830 V/TDD

SW Regional Center            SE Regional Center
P.O. Box 8247                P.O. Box 547511
Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067-8247        Orlando, FL 32854-7511
619-756-1012 V/TDD            407-682-2535 V/TDD

NC Regional Center            NE Regional Center
4989 State Route 37 East        P.O. Box 205
Delaware, OH 43015-9682            Farmingdale, NY 11735-0205
614-548-4447 V/TDD            516-694-6938 V/TDD

This organization is involved in training dogs to assist handicapped
people.  They train signal dogs for the deaf, and dogs for physically
disabled or developmentally disabled persons.

Canine Companions for Independence has provided highly skilled
assistance dogs for people with disabilities since 1975.  CCI started
as a small, at-home organization and has grown into a dynamic
non-profit agency with five regional centers nationwide.

A Canine Companion's specialized training starts in a volunteer puppy
raiser's home.  The puppy raiser is responsible for the young dog's
care, socialization, and the teaching of basic commands.  At 1.5 years
of age, the dog is returned to a CCI regional training center for
eight months of advanced training by a professional CCI instructor.
The dog is then ready for an intensive two-to-three week training camp
where its new owner learns to work with a fully trained dog.

It costs more than US$20,000 to breed, raise, and train each Canine
Companion, yet recipients pay only a US$25 application fee and US$100
for training seminar supplies. The dog is provided completely free of
charge.  CCI depends entirely on donations; it does not receive
government funds.  CCI also relies heavily on the dedication of its
many volunteers, who play a vital role in CCI's mission to provide
exceptional dogs for exceptional people.

The breeds CCI uses for service and social dogs are black and yellow
Labs, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Lab/Golden Retriever
mix.  CCI is moving away from using German Shepherds for two reasons:
first, a lot of the public view (and fear) German Shepherds as
"police" or "guard" dogs, and second, German Shepherds bond very
strongly to people and the program is difficult on them because first
they form a strong bond to their puppy raiser, then to their trainer
when they go back to CCI, and then to their eventual handicapped
owner.  For signal dogs they use Corgis and Border Collies.

CCI will work with people in need of assistance to determine if a
properly trained dog can provide that assistance.  Dogs can be taught
to retrieve a variety of things -- even to distinguish between
specific items -- and to manipulate a variety of objects.  Monkeys
have been tried for this purpose, as they are more dexterous.
However, they are not as reliably trainable and are very expensive, so
dogs present a much more practical alternative.  Given some
extensions, such as rope handles on doors and light switches, dogs can
give a disabled person complete mobility within her or his home.

CCI finds and trains a variety of dogs for different forms of
assistance: hearing dogs, physically disabled assistant dogs, even as
therapy dogs.  They are all neutered, as with guide dogs.  People who
are to receive one of the dogs are required to attend a two-week
seminar to learn how to communicate and care for their assistance.  As
needed, the people and their dogs are provided with permits that
identify the dogs as licensed canine companions -- this is enough to
gain entry into most places, as with the more well-known Seeing Eye
dogs.


|D.  Therapy Dogs.

|Dogs are quite often used in therapy.  This ranges from visiting
|hospitalized people to being a companion dog for mentally handicapped
|or disturbed persons.  There are a variety of groups that train
|therapy dogs, some local and some national.  Some use the AKC Canine
|Good Citizen test to choose suitable dogs, others have devised their
|own Temperament Tests.

|A national organization that dispenses information about therapy dogs
|is the Delta Society, PO Box 1080, Renton, WA 98057, [phone].

|In addition many local humane societies, breed clubs, and obedience
|clubs do some hospital visitation.


E.  Search and Rescue Dogs.

SAR comprises a large variety of abilities, some of which are covered
separately below.  SAR varies by locale: searching for victims in
rubble (avalanches or collapsed buildings) is different from searching
wilderness/forest areas for a missing person.  SAR is often linked
with local law enforcement, as SAR dogs can trail escaped convicts or
suspects from a crime scene.

1.  Where to get started

It is best to affiliate with a reputable SAR organization.  You may
even wish to join the reserves unit with your local law enforcement --
this entitles you to insurance protection, for example.  Be picky
about finding a professional organization to join: there are many
wannabe clubs out there that would really just get in the way of an
actual SAR effort, and there is variability even with law-enforcement
groups.

There are some national groups and many states have their own
organizations (e.g., California's CARDA -- CAlifornia Rescue Dog
Association, WOOF -- Wilderness Finders, Inc., SSD -- Sierra Search
Dogs).  An additional benefit is being able to learn from people
who've been at this for a long time: no book or self-training will
ever give you the valuable insights you can gain this way.  These
types of organization will have their own certification and testing
processes.  For example, WOOF requires dogs and handlers to be dual
certified -- wilderness AND disaster SAR.

A professional organization should have law enforcement liasons (or
even be part of the police force) as any search, even for a missing
person, has the potential for turning into a hunt for a felon.  Some
organizations are put together from law enforcement reserve officers,
sometimes active duty officers.  Others simply work closely with local
law enforcement.  Cooperation for the protection of everyone is
essential.

Any dog can detect scent.  Some are individually better at it than
others.  Some breeds (especially the hounds) have been bred so that as
a class, they contain many more talented individuals.  A dog's
conformation, structure and temperament will all affect its talent at
tracking or trailing.  But the breed doesn't really matter, except for
serious and professional tracking.  You can have fun with tracking on
your own.  All you have to do is train your dog to follow its nose.
Some extremely practical information, whether or not you're serious
about SAR, to get started with can be found in:

Button, Lue.  _Practical Scent Dog Training_.  Alpine Publications,
Inc. 214 19th St. SE, Loveland, CO 80537.  1990.  ISBN: 0-931866-47-2.
  A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence
  search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test.  Starts with
  young puppies.  Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at
  Los Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.

2.  Tracking and Trailing

There are two major ways to follow the trail of a person, although
they're really on two ends of a continuum.  _Tracking_ is the process
where the dog follows the person's exact path.  _Trailing_ is the
process where the dog follows the person's scent, which may or may not
approximate the path the person took because of factors affecting the
dispersal of scent such as wind and temperature.  Contrary to popular
opinion, water does not disrupt a tracking or trailing dog, the dog
will simply cast around for your trail on the other side.  In
addition, dogs can locate corpses in the water, so the theory that
water does not hold scent does not, well, hold water.  Dogs can even
trail people in cars, from the scent that blows out of the window or
through the vents of the car.

Some common terminology: A Track Solid dog follows a track, and
usually the newest.  A Track Sure dog will follow the track associated
with the scent he started with, and will not follow a track laid by a
different person as long as the second track was laid at a different
time.  A Track Clean Dog will follow the correct trail even if it
crosses other trails laid at the same time.  For example, for disaster
work (e.g., finding victims in rubble), dogs lead their handlers
towards any human scent from the rubble; this is "tracking solid."  A
Bloodhound, given a scent article, will "track clean," finding that
same individual regardless of whatever crosses the track.

To start trailing a specific individual, the dog needs an
uncontaminated scent article.  Best items are underwear, T-shirts, or
something that the person has directly handled.  The scent article is
just as much evidence as the "smoking gun" is, unfortunately, many
people (including law enforcement folks) are still unaware of how to
use scent as evidence and often handle, and thus contaminate,
potential scent articles.  Dogs can still get around this by doing the
"missing member" search: the dog takes note of which scent on the
article is not immediately present and searches for that person.

Traditionally, people think of SAR dogs hunting through forest or
wilderness for lost hikers or children.  While this is still quite
true, SAR dogs also find escaped prisoners, lost [mentally impaired]
patients, lost children in the city or the suburbs, suspects fleeing a
crime scene.  As a result, urban SAR is rapidly growing.

Bloodhounds are by far the best for performing difficult and long
trails.  They are large (100-120 lbs), capable of covering great
distance, and their facial structure (loose skin) allows them to cup
and catch even the faintest scent.  Their stubborn and patient
temperament allows them to stick with trails that are miles long.
Bloodhounds were originally bred for large prey, and have been used to
track people since about the 16th century.  For smaller game, other
hounds were developed, with shorter legs and smaller size.  These type
of hounds cannot cover trails as old or as long as the Bloodhound.

Labradors and German Shepherds are often used in tracking.  They do
not do as well with older or longer trails, but are more than capable
of following trails within their limitations.  Also because they can
work off leash better than the Bloodhound can, they can work more
rapidly if there is a need for haste.

3.  Disaster search

Some SAR dogs are trained to search through rubble for people.  In
this scenario, the dog is not finding a specific person, as is the
case with tracking and trailing.  The dog is looking for any human
scent.  Avalanches, collapsed buildings, airplane and train crashes
are all examples of sites where these kind of dogs are employed.  Most
often, German Shepherds or Labradors are used for this kind of work:
these dogs work well off leash (which Bloodhounds do not) and are
suitably agile for scrambling around in the debris (which Bloodhounds
are not).

4.  Cadaver search

Dogs can be trained to find cadavers, new or old.  Some dogs are
employed on archeological digs to help locate old graves.  Other dogs
are used by law enforcement to find recently dead people, or to
collect all the bones found in an area.  Others find drowning victims.
This is a rapidly expanding field, with new methods of training
currently being developed.

4.  Related testing

Many SAR organizations will put together mock disaster sites and
evaluate dogs sent over the sites.  There are no standards or anything
like that except within a particular organization.

For tracking and trailing, AKC and ABC (American Bloodhound Club) have
a series of titles in tracking (TD, TDX) and trailing (MT, MTX).  ABC
is negotiating with the AKC to add the trailing titles to its standard
set.

5.  References

Bryson, Sandy.  _Search Dog Training_.  Third printing.  Boxwood
Press, 183 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, CA 93950.  1991 (c 1984).
ISBN: 0-910286-94-9.
  A well organized, comprehensive discussion of search dog training.
  Includes practical tips, discussion of search and rescue and the law
  and many other topics.

Davis, L. Wilson.  _Go Find!  Training Your Dog to Track_.  Ninth
printing, 1984.  Howell Book House, Inc., New York.  c1974.
ISBN: 0-87605-550-1 (hardcover).
  Blurb:  "Major L. Wilson Davis is America's recognized authority on
  Tracking -- named in September 1973 to the Obedience Advisory
  Committee of the AKC as its official consultant on Tracking and
  scent training for dogs.  This official status follows upon decades
  of recognized achievement in these phases of Obedience training.
  Following distinguished service with the K-9 Corps during WWII, he
  has been active in the Governmnent's program of using trained
  tracking dogs for the recovery of detonated missile parts in missile
  experimentation.  Major Davis was an AKC licensed judge for all
  classes of Obedience.  He is presently training director of the
  famous Oriole Dog Training Club of Baltimore.  He organized and
  headed the Baltimor City K-9 Corps, one of the finest in the
  country, and is often asked to lecture and advise police departments
  on the use of tracking dogs in law enforcement.  Major Davis is a
  recipient of the Quaker Oats Distinguished Service Award for his
  dedicated contributions to dog training."

Pearsall, Milo D. and Hugo Verbruggen, MD.  _Scent: Training to Track,
Search, and Rescue_.  Alpine Publications, Inc., Colorado.  1982.
ISBN: 0-931-866-11-1.
  Blurb: "The authors first look at the scientific qualities of scent
  -- what and how dogs smell and how environmental factors affect the
  track.  Then they use this background as a basis for training.
  Topics include the science of scent, kindergarden puppy tracking,
  tracking equipment, tracking tests, training to search, search and
  track, search and find, search and rescue, trail companion, scent
  and the law enforcement agency, first aid on the trail and much more."

Tolhurst, William D. with Lena F. Reed.  _Manhunters!  Hounds of the
Big T_.  Hound Dog Press, 10705 Woodland Avenue, Puyallup, WA 98373.
1984.  ISBN: 0-9617723-0-1 (hardcover).
  Tolhurst is a Search and Rescue volunteer in upstate New York.  This
  book recounts his experiences using bloodhounds in trailing.  Many
  fascinating stories.  Tolhurst includes a section on training a dog
  to locate dead bodies.


F.  Water Rescue Dogs.

[would love more history and references]

There are some dogs trained for water rescue.  Some dogs are trained
to deliver flotation devices to the person, others actually drag the
person out of the water.  The latter is most often done by
Newfoundlands, as they have the swimming ability and size to perform
such feats.

G.  Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.

This is commonly considered a subset of SAR.  Dogs can be trained to
alert (by barking, pointing, or pawing) on controlled substances such
as drugs, agricultural products (e.g., in customs or at borders), and
nearly anything else (for example, gunpowder (to detect guns), bomb
materials, arson materials).  Narcotic dogs are trained to search
through buildings, cars, and luggage for their scent.  They can be
trained to alert on more than one kind of drug, and can do so despite
ingenious efforts on the smuggler's part: dogs have been known to
locate drugs concealed in gasoline, rotting food, skunk oil, and many
other efforts.  They can be trained to discriminate between large and
small amounts: in fact some dogs are trained to whiff passing
vehicles; if it alerts on one, that vehicle can be stopped later and
searched without directly involving the dog and its handler.

Evidence dogs are trained to search for items bearing human scent,
sometimes specific human scent.  They are utilized in crime scenes to
find evidence thrown away by a suspect.  Such evidence can be later
used (if handled properly) by a Bloodhound to link the scent on it to
a suspect: several such cases have been deemed admissible evidence in
court.

Dogs that are trained to alert on contraband items are almost always
owned by law enforcement personnel, as these individuals can most
easily legally obtain small quantities of contraband to train their
dog with.  In other words, average citizens do not train narcotic dogs
because of legal difficulties.  The dog's training record must record
legal acquisition of contraband material used in training: if no such
record exists, or the dog does not have a training record, then its
evidence will not be accepted in court.  (In other words, don't try
this at home.  Similar problems exist for the cadaver dog: dead human
parts must be legally obtained.)


H.  Schutzhund.

My thanks to Michael Sierchio for this section.

1.  What is Schutzhund?

Schutzhund is a German word meaning "protection dog".  It refers to a
sport that focuses on developing and evaluating those traits in dogs
that make them more useful and happier companions to their owners.

Schutzhund is a dog training and breeding regimen developed originally
in the 20's by the Deutsches Shaeferhund Verein (German Shepherd Dog
Club), or SV, in order to maintain the working ability of the breed.
While the term Schutzhund means literally "protection dog", the
training involves work equally in tracking, obedience and protection.
In order to get a Schutzhund degree a dog must pass all three phases
of the work. Also, a working title (at least a SchH I) is required for
breed survey purposes, and in order to register an approved litter.

The first Schutzhund trial was held in Germany in 1901 to emphasize
the correct working temperament and ability in the German Shepherd
breed.  SV, the parent club of the breed, developed the Schutzhund
test as a way of maintaining reliable dogs with traits suitable for
breeding.

Many countries and working dog organizations have also adopted
Schutzhund as a sport and test of working performance. International
rules have been established by the Verein fuer Deutsche Hundesport
(VDH).  The first SchH trial in the U.S. was held in California in
1970.  In 1987 the U.S.A. alone sanctioned nearly 300 trials with a
total entry of 1,800 dog/handler teams.

Many breeds now participate in addition to GSDs.  While there may be
individual dogs of a particular breed that may be suitable for the
work, the following are most consistently able to perform: GSDs,
Belgian Malinois, Doberman Pinscher, Bouvier des Flandres, Rottweiler,
Tervuren, Boxer, Giant Schnauzer, etc.  Generally, these are larger
working breeds with strong prey and defense drives, and temperaments
suitable for the tasks of the training.  Under current rules fighting
breeds, such as Pit Bulls, Am Staffs, Bull Staffs, etc. are not
eligible to participate.

There are three major degrees awarded - SchH I, SchH II, and SchH III
-- in order of increasing difficulty.  SchH I (IPO I) is the
apprentice test.  A SchH III dog must demonstrate a high level of
performance, ability and courage.

The traits that make for a good Schutzhund candidate mostly are innate
characteristics that must be bred for.  Even among dogs bred out of
Schutzhund bitches and dogs, a minority have the ability to reach even
SchH I, and a small percentage will have the necessary drive,
intelligence and hardness to achieve a Sch III title. In addition to
breeding, early development is important.  The young pup should not be
subjected to strong corrections or experience being dominated by
another dog, and all training and play should end on a positive note,
with the pup "winning."

The IPO (International Pruefungsordnung) rules, under the auspices of
the FCI (Federation Internationale Cynologique), are similar to the
Schutzhund rules and the trials are run in the same manner, with the
exception that no evaluation of the fighting instincts, courage or
hardness of an IPO entrant is performed during the protection phase of
the trial.

(The following information on degrees and requirements is from the
United Schutzhund Clubs of America)

Degree                                            Min Age

B        Begleithunde                              12 months
         (Companion Dog)

FH       Faehrtenhundpruefung                      16 months
         (Advanced Tracking Dog Test)

AD       Ausdauerpruefung                          16 months
         (Endurance Test)

SchH A   Schutzhund Examination A                  18 months
SchH I   Schutzhund Examination I                  18 months
SchH II  Schutzhund Examination II                 19 months
SchH III Schutzhund Examination III                20 months

The maximum score in each of the three phases shall be 100 points.
Therefore, the highest possible score in a trial is 300 points.  A
degree shall be awarded only if a dog achieves at least 70 points in
Tracking and Obedience, and at least 80 points in Protection.

[For the purposes of illustration, I have included the rules for SchH I
trials]

SCHUTZHUND A

The Schutzhund A Examination is composed of phases B and C of the SchH I
Examination.  The conduct of the examination is the same except that the
tracking phase is omitted, and the maximum possible score is 200 points.
This training degree is not accepted under the rules for conformation
shows, breeding requirements or breed surveys.

SCHUTZHUND I

Phase A - Tracking

Tracking a 350-400 pace long trail at least 20 minutes old with two
articles on a 10 meter tracking lead, or tracking without a lead.  The
track has two 90 degree turns.  The handler lays the track as
indicated by the judge, placing the first article in the middle of the
first or second leg without interrupting the pace or changing the
stride.  The second article is deposited at the end of the track.

The handler reports to the judge with the dog, and indicates whether
the articles will be picked up or pointed out.  The dog and handler
proceed to the scent pad at the beginning of the track. Prior to
tracking, and during the entire tracking phase, all force or pressure
is to be avoided.  At the start, the dog must be given sufficient time
to absorb the scent.

The dog must begin quietly and pick up the scent with a deep nose. As
soon as the dog begins to track, the handler must stop and let the
length of the 10 meter leash slip through his/her hands.  The handler
now follows at the distance of 10 meters, whether tracking with a lead
or without.

Immediately upon finding an article, the dog must convincingly stop,
stand, sit, or pick up the article, or return it to the handler.  If
pointing out, the dog must lie, sit or stay.  By lifting the article
high in the air, the handler indicates to the judge that it has been
found.  The tracking leash is loosely held as the dog and handler
continue on the track. The articles are presented to the presiding
judge after completion of the track.

A faulty start, excessive circling on corners, continued praise,
faulty picking up or pointing of the articles, dropping articles,
pronounced quartering, high nose, urinating or defecating on the
track, or hunting mice, etc. will be penalized.

Phase B - Obedience

Heeling on Leash and Impartiality - 15 Points

Starting from the basic heeling position, the dog and handler proceed
for 40 paces without stopping. A turnabout is performed, and after
10-15 paces a running heel followed by a slow heel, each of about 10
paces, are demonstrated. During a normal pace at least one left turn,
one right turn, and one left turnabout must be performed.  A halt must
be performed after the turns and while the handler is moving straight.
A voice command is permitted only when starting the exercise, or when
changing pace. The judge will direct the handler through a group of at
least 4 people, amd the handler is required to stop at least once in
the group. The group is expected to mingle about.

Heeling off Leash - 20 Points

When requested by the judge, the leash will be removed while in the
basic position.  The handler moves through the group with the dog
freely heeling.  After demonstrating ar least one halt, the handler and
dog leave the group and perform the heeling exercises that were
performed on leash.  While the dog and handler are performing the
off-leash exercises, at least 2 gun shots (6 - 9 mm) are to be fired
(not while moving in the group) and the dog must remain indifferent to
the noise. Special emphasis is placed on indifference to the gun.  If
the judge deems the dog to be insecure or should the dog run from the
shot, the judge may excuse the dog from further participation.

Sit Exercise - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line.  After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to sit - the dog should quickly come to a sit
position.  The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces without
interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to face the
dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler returns to the right
side of the dog.

Down with Recall - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line.  After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to down - the dog should quickly come to a
down position.  The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces
without interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to
face the dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler shall recall
the dog.  The dog should come to the handler with a spirited and swift
motion and sit close in front.  Upon a "heel" command, the dog should
quickly come to a sit position next to the handler.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler on Level Ground - 10
Points

The dog sitting freely next to the handler should, when given the
voice command, quickly move toward the article tossed approximately 10
paces away. The dog must immediately and quickly bring the article
back to the handler, and sit close in front. The dog must hold the
article until, after a brief pause, the handler issues the command to
let go.  After the command to heel, the dog should come quickly to the
heel position.  In place of an article belonging to the handler, a
dumbbell can be used -- however, balls, toys, etc. are not considered
personal articles.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler over a 1 Meter High and
1.5 Meter Wide Brush Hurdle - 15 Points

The handler assumes a position at an acceptable distance in front of
the hurdle while the dog sits freely next to the handler.  The article
is tossed over the hurdle.  Upon voice command, the dog shall clear
the hurdle without touching it, pick up the article, return over the
jump and sit closely in front of the handler. The article must be held
by the dog until the handler removes it with the command to let go.

Go Ahead and Down - 10 Points

When requested by the judge, the handler and freely heeling dog
proceed a few paces in the designated direction.  The command to "go
out" should be executed by simultaneously stopping and lifting the arm
to indicate direction.  The dog must move at a fast pace at least 25
paces.  The dog must lay down quickly upon voice command. At the
request of the judge, the handler proceeds to pick up the dog by
moving to the right side of the dog, commanding the dog to sit, and
then putting on the leash.

Long Down Under Distraction

Prior to the start of the obedience exercises of another dog, the
handler commands the dog into a down position at a spot designated by
the judge.  The handler moves approximately 40 paces away within sight
of the dog. The handler remains quiet with his back to the dog.  The
dog must remain in the down position without additional influences
from the handler until the other dog concludes the first 6 exercises.
The finish will be like the Go Ahead and Down, above.

Phase C - Protection

Search for the Helper - 5 Points

The helper is hidden in a position 40 paces away so that the dog must
make searching passes to the right and left, or vice versa.  The
handler and dog must be out of sight when the helper moves into the
hiding place.  At the request of the judge, the handler releases the
dog and gives the command to search towards the empty hiding place,
then towards the helper. The command "here" and the dog's name may be
used.

Hold and Bark - 10 Points

When the dog reaches the helper it should immediately and continuously
bark.  The dog should not bother the helper by gripping or bumping.
The handler is to remain at a distance of approximately 25 paces. When
the judge indicates, the handler will pick up the dog and hold it
securely so that the helper can leave the hiding place.

Attack - 35 Points

A helper is directed to proceed to another hiding place at least 50
paces away.  Upon directions from the judge, the handler will proceed
with a free heeling dog towards the hiding place.  The handler is now
attacked from the front by the helper, who suddenly comes out of the
hiding place.  No contact is permitted between the handler and helper.
The dog must immediately attack and demonstrate a firm grip.  The dog
will be struck with a flexible, padded stick -- two blows will be
given on the flanks, thighs, or withers.  Encouragement may be given
via vocal command.  When requested by the judge, the helper stops the
aggression.  The dog must independently release, or release his grip
upon receiving the command to "out".  After receiving the command from
the judge, the handler will hold the dog by the collar.

Pursuit and Hold - 50 Points

The helper makes threatening gestures and runs away.  After he has
gone about 50 paces, the handler sends the dog toward the helper and
remains standing still. The judge will instruct the helper to turn
around and run toward the dog when the dog is about 30 paces away.
Using aggressive and threatening motions, the helper will run toward
the dog.  When the dog has taken a firm grip, the helper will press
the dog briefly without applying the stick, then cease resistance.
The dog must release, either independently, or after receiving the
command to "out".  After the dog has let go, the handler will remain
standing without influencing the dog.  Upon a signal from the judge,
the handler will approach the dog and helper at a normal pace.  The
handler will order the helper to step back from the dog, and order the
dog to lay down.  The helper will be searched and disarmed before
transport to the judge.  The dog will be on leash during transport.
The handler will leave the area with the dog on leash.

The fighting drive, including courage and hardness, is to be
scrutinized during the entire protection phase.  This will be rated as
pronounced, sufficient, or insufficient.

Only energetic fighting and a firm grip will allow a full score.  A
dog that does not release after one command to let go, or who is not
under control of the handler, or who fails any exercise of the
protection phase cannot pass the test.  If a dog fails a single
exercise, it will be excused from the remainder of the phase.  No
deductions are made for a dog that alertly circles the helper.

2.  References:

Barwig, Susan.  _Schutzhund_.  Quality Press, Englewood, CO.  1978.


I.  Police Dogs.

This is a very general term.  Technically, any dog working for a
police or sheriff department is a "police dog," this includes
narcotic, evidence, tracking, trailing, and attack dogs.  SAR and
narcotic and evidence search have already been covered.  The popular
notion of the term "police dog" refers to "attack" dogs kept by law
enforcement departments.  Dogs can do more than one job; there is no
reason that a dog couldn't trail/track people, sniff out narcotics,
and locate arson material.  But attack dogs are usually used only for
chasing suspects and bringing them down.  Schutzhund training shows
that attack training does not exclude other abilities, but for
whatever reasons, this is not often done (Schutzhund training itself
is difficult; the Schutzhund section describes the difficulty of
finding suitable candidates for the training).  There are often
liability concerns; an "attack" dog will be viewed unfavorably by most
judges and juries if it attacked someone, even justifiably, while
doing something else.

There are no national or even state-wide standards for these dogs.
Many are Schutzhund trained.  Some are well trained, others are not.
German Shepherd Dogs are commonly used, but any large breed with
energy and drive can be used: Bouvier des Flandres, Dobermann
Pinschers, Malinois, Rottweilers and others have also been used as
police dogs.

The use of police dogs, in an organized fashion, began in the US in
1907 with South Orange, New Jersey, and New York Police Departments.
These were followed by departments in Glen Ridge, NJ (1910), Detroit
(1917), Berkeley, CA (1930), Pennsylvania State Police (1931), Royal
Canadian Mounted Police K-9 Section (1937), and the Connecticut State
Police (1944).  Many other departments have since created programs of
their own to utilize dogs.  This is the reason for the lack of uniform
standards across the country, as each department makes its own.

For a detailed reference, including history, try:

Chapman, Samuel G. _Police Dogs in America_.  Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.

For information on training dogs for different types of police work
(but not attack or protection), see:

Tolhurst, Bill.  _The Police Textbook for Dog Handlers_.  Sharp
Printing, 3477 Lockport Road, Sanborn, NY 14132.  1991.  (Paperback,
89 pages.)
  This book is only available from the author.  $14 plus $2 shipping
  and handling.  Write to Bill Tolhurst, 383 Willow Street, Lockport,
  NY 14094.  The most comprehensive training book available.  Contains
  information not available from any other source.  Contains updated
  information covered by the original National Police Bloodhound
  Training Manual (1977).  Plus: how to train a land-cadaver dog, a
  water-cadaver dog, an article-search dog, an accelerant (arson) dog.
  Information on the Scent Transfer Machine, about radio-controlled
  dogs, on crime scene dog development, on the use of a scent sleeve.
  Discusses seminars, Bloodhound misconceptions, testifying in court,
  commands, puppy profiles (how to select a puppy) and more.


J.  Sled Dogs.

My thanks to Stephen Lee for this section.

1. History

Prior to the formation of sled dog racing as a formal sport, sled dogs
were bred and used by native peoples of the polar regions of the world
in their everyday lives for survival in harsh climates.  Two dogs
commonly employed in sledding are Alaskan Malamutes and Siberian
Huskies.  These two breeds had quite different origins and uses.
Alaskan Malamutes originated with a group of Eskimo people known as
the Mahlemiut.  The dogs of that time were very large freighting dogs,
capable of pulling heavy weight.  The Mahlemiut people inhabited the
region in the upper part of the Anvik River in Alaska, and were spread
out over a large area.  The Mahlemiut people used these dogs for
hauling food back to the villages.  The gold rush in 1896 created a
high demand for these dogs.  On the other hand, Siberian Huskies
originated with the Chuckchi people of northeastern Siberia.  These
people had a Stone Age culture and used their dogs for a variety of
things, like herding reindeer and pulling loads.  These dogs were
smaller and faster than their Mahlemiut counterparts.  These dogs were
exported to Alaska at around the time of the gold rush.  Thus the gold
rush played a very important role in the development of our modern day
sled dog breeds.

Sled dog racing began as a formal sport with the first All-Alaska
Sweepstakes race in 1908.  Prior to this, Alaska's mushers had little
opportunity for recreation and they used their teams primarily for
work and transportation.  Rules for the races were established, and
they provided a good diversion to the difficult living conditions.  In
the 1920's, airplanes were gradually replacing sled dog teams for
transportation, freight hauling, and mail delivery.  In 1925, sled
dogs proved that they were invaluable during the "Great Race of Mercy
to Nome."  In Nome, an outbreak of diphtheria threatened to become a
fatal epidemic.  A 20lb package of antitoxin serum needed to be
relayed from Nenana to Nome.  Twenty drivers and more than 100 dogs
were recruited for the run.  Planes were ruled out due to extreme cold
(40 below and colder) and if the plane crashed, the serum would be
lost.  Serum was transported from Anchorage to Nenana by train.  The
drive was a success, the serum was delivered and lives were saved.
The drive covered some 674 miles in less than five and a half days.
This, along with the simple commemoration of the uses of the Iditarod
trail, is the origin of the Iditarod sled dog race.

2. Types of sled dogs

Naturally, most northern breeds were used as sled dogs.  Alaskan
Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, Eskimo Dogs, Greenlands, Samoyeds,
Norrbottenspets, and Hokkaidokens are all sled dogs.  However, lots of
different breeds of dogs have been and are used to drive sleds and
carts.

People use Irish Setters, Dalmations, Golden Retrievers, etc., to
enjoy mushing sports.  In fact, most modern day speed and endurance
mushers use mixed breeds (often Siberian crossed with Greyhound).  So,
if you do not have a "sled dog," but still want to enjoy the sport, fear
not, for most any type of dog can be used.  Mushing is fun, both to
take part in and simply to watch.

3. Mushing terms

Contrary to common belief, the word "mush" is not used to drive sled
dogs.  Mush comes from the French word "marche" which is from the
verb "marcher" which means to walk.  Undoubtedly, the French used this
during gold rush days.  The word "mush" is felt to be too "soft" a
sound to be used as a command.  Below is a short list of common
commands and terms associated with dog driving sports.

          Hike          : Get the dogs moving
          Gee           : Turn right
          Haw           : Turn left
          Easy          : Slow down
          Musher        : One that drives sled dogs
          Mushing       : The act of driving sled dogs
          Lead dog      : Dog that steers the sled dog team and
                          regulates speed
          Wheel dog     : Dogs closest to the sled
          Sled          : Wooden rig the dogs pull in the snow and
                          on which you stand
          Snowless rigs : Also called training carts.  Take the place
                          of the sled when there is no snow.

There are many other terms common to dog driving sports.  One book
that has a very good glossary in it is _Dog Driver_, by Miki and Julie
Collins.  See the references section for a complete citation.

4. Mushing equipment

The types of mushing equipment alone could cover many pages: only the
main points are covered here.  The references listed at the end of
this section provide additional information.

There are two main types of sleds -- basket sleds and toboggan sleds.
Basket sleds (also called stanchion sleds) are popular among sprint
racers and recreational mushers.  They are fast on glare ice and hard
pack trails, and are also good in high wind conditions.  They are
lightweight, and the basket is set high off the runners, which can
keep gear dry.  Toboggan sleds are more durable and stable than the
basket sleds, and they are capable of carrying bigger loads.  They are
more rigid and generally less maneuverable than basket sleds.  The bed
of the toboggan rides two inches above the snow.  These sleds handle
soft snow better than their basket counterparts.  Both types of sleds
are equipped with a brake, which is a vital item.  The brake is very
simple, consisting of a spring loaded wood plank attached to the sled
bed at one end and a metal hook at the other.  When riding the sled,
standing on the runners, one simply pushes down on the brake, driving
the hook into the snow.  It is an effective method of slowing and
stopping the sled.

So, which sled?  It depends on what you want to do.  Basket sleds are
lighter and more suitable for racing.  Racing trails are groomed and
hard packed for speed.  They can be used for longer trips and camping.
However, to carry more gear and run in softer snow conditions, a
toboggan sled would be better.  For the novice and/or once-in-a-while
musher, the basket sled is the best choice.  They are generally
cheaper and easier to learn on.

In order to have your dog pull the sled, it must have a proper
harness.  There are many, but two main types of harnesses are the
x-back and the freighting, or weight pulling harness.  For speed or
recreational mushing, the x-back harness is the harness of choice.
The harness is extremely important as it properly distributes the
weight of the load across the dog's muscular-skeleto system.  Of all
the components of mushing, the harness is the most important.  The
x-back harness is sometimes referred to as a racing harness, but it is
NOT strictly used for racing.  As long as the load is not too heavy,
the x-back is used for a wide variety of dog driving activities.  The
harness should should be padded around the front and fit the dog very
well.  Unfortunately, a picture is not possible, and without that, it
is a little difficult to visualize.  See the references for additional
details.

The weight pulling harness is used to haul heavier loads.  Therefore,
one would expect to see freighting harnesses used in conjunction with
toboggan sleds.  They are also used in competitive weight pulling.
They are similar to the x-back harness, except that they are
constructed to give the dog different freedom of movement and
different distribution of the load.  The freighting harness has one
very important feature that the x-back harness does not.  At the rear
of the harness, there is a "spacer", usually a wooden rod that is
about as long as the dog is wide.  While pulling heavy loads, the rod
is well away from the back of the dogs rear legs.  For recreational
mushers, this wooden rod can be somewhat irritating for the dog as it
will hit the back of the dogs legs when not loaded.  Consider what you
are going to do with the dog(s) before purchasing or making a harness.

The line that runs from the sled to the dogs is called a _gang line_.
They are simple to construct yourself once you understand their
function and geometry.  The gang line consists of three components.
The first is the _tow line_, which is typically 3/8 inch polyethelene
rope.  It connects to the sled and runs up *between* the dogs which
are hitched side by side on either side of the towline.  To this, the
_tug lines_ are attached.  These lines are typically 1/4 inch poly
rope and are "braided" into the tow line.  The tug lines attach to the
harnesses (which are on the dogs!).  The final component is the _neck
line_.  The neck line is also 1/4 inch poly rope and is braided into
the tow line.  The end of the neck line attaches to the dog's collar.
The dog does NOT pull from this under ANY circumstances.  The function
of the neck line is to keep the dogs close to the tow line, thereby
maximizing their pull strength.  When out on the trail, you always
want to have a spare gang line, as the dogs may break theirs, or a
tangle may become so severe that the line must be cut to free the
dogs!

The next component of mushing equipment is the snow hook.  The snow
hook is essentially an "emergency brake" for the sled.  When you stop
the sled, and must get off to untangle dogs or rest or something, you
can set the snow hook in the snow and it will hold the dogs (and
therefore the sled) in place.  They are remarkably effective.  They
are simple: a large, heavy, metal hook, weighing a couple of pounds
and about 12 inches in length.  These can be purchased from a variety
of places.  It is very important to attach the hook to the rear of the
gangline, not the sled.  A strong team of dogs can very easily tear a
sled to pieces if the sled is between the hook and the dogs.

The last pieces of equipment to mention are the sled bag and dog
booties.  The sled bag can be used to carry an injured dog or gear.
In an ISDRA sanctioned sled dog race, sled bags are a required piece
of equipment.  They can be made or purchased.  Dog booties are used to
protect the dogs feet from injury, particularly on long journeys.
They are typically used when mushing on rough ice, when mushing along
roadways where chemicals from de-icing can be present, or when driving
the dogs on a snowless rig on a hard surface.  Booties can be made or
purchased.

How about the cost?  Well, it varies, of course.  The numbers below
are typical.

              Sled      : $300.00 - 500.00
              Harness   : $15.00 - 18.00
              Ganglines : $10.00
              Sled Bags : $25.00
              Snow Hook : $10.00
              Booties   : $1.00 (per paw)

The references section includes the names, addresses, and phone
numbers of some outfitters that sell this type of equipment.

5. Skijoring equipment

Skijoring really only requires six simple components.  A skier (you!),
a dog (or dogs!), an x-back harness, a tow line, padded belt, and
cross country skis.  You MUST know how to cross country ski VERY well
to do this.  The harness has been discussed previously, there is no
need to discuss the skis, and the tow line is just that -- a line that
connects you to the dog(s).  This leaves the padded belt.  These can
be purchased or made.  The idea is that you put the belt on, attach
the tow line to it, attach the dogs to it, and go!  Some people prefer
to use a handle to hang on to rather than attach the dogs to them.
The handle can then be dropped if the dogs pull you into trouble!
Others feel that it is best to use a belt and execute a controlled fall
in case of trouble rather than risk having the dogs injure themselves
in a tangle when a handle is dropped.

6.  Weight pulling equipment

The name of the game here is truly the harness.  As discussed above,
the weight pulling harness is completely different from the x-back
harness, and THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!  The weight pulling harness
has side lines that connect to a spreader bar at the hock, instead of
continuing up to the hips.  This is important, because a single dog
weighing 60 lbs may pull 2000 lbs!

7.  Other equipment

Many mushers have a wheeled cart for training in the fall prior to
snow fall.  In areas with insufficient snow, these carts are used in
competition.  These can be purchased or made by a good welder.  Carts
are a lot of fun, but are difficult to come by, they can be difficult
to control, and they go *very* fast with enthusiastic dogs.

Some people use pulks in the snow and carts in the summer to work
their dogs.  Carts are small "wagons" that are used to haul small
loads or children.  Pulks are carts for the snow (they are like small
sleds).  They are used to carry equipment.  Carts and pulks can be
made or bought.

8. Training the musher

Dog driving is not merely riding on the back of the sled issuing
commands to steer the dogs.  It is work!  If you start doing it in
earnest, you will pull muscles, fall off the sled and have to pull
yourself back on the runners with one hand, run yourself ragged
chasing after the team (because you fell off of the sled), run into
trees, and so on.  In addition to these things, a musher must "peddle"
the sled.  This too can be tiring since it is repetitive.  Peddling is
pushing the sled forward with one foot while riding the sled.  This is
helpful to the dogs, particularly when tired.  You may also frequently
get off to run alongside when the dogs are tired.  Therefore, to
successfully drive sled dogs, the musher must train his or her body as
well.  Conditioning of the musher is to a small extent a function of
the type of mushing to be done.  The key is endurance and flexibility
over muscle bulk.  Running, biking, cross country skiing and downhill
skiing are all good ways to build strength.  You must remember that at
all times, you are alpha.  If you are tired, hesitant, and uncertain,
your team will pick this up and become confused and unresponsive.
This can be particularly dangerous on longer journeys into the
wilderness.

It should be clear from this that dogs in a sled dog team must be very
well bonded to the driver.  Not only does it make training much
easier, but well socialized, well bonded dogs make a very good sled
dog team.  The dogs are looking to you as their undisputed leader, and
you and they work together as a *team*.  If you are careful to bond to
each of your dogs as individuals, and socialize them very well with
each other, other dogs, and other humans, your dogs will be willing to
do virtually anything for you.

9.  Training dogs to pull

There are many aspects to training dogs to pull.  Probably the most
fundamental is *start young*.  Get a puppy used to its harness, just
as you would a collar and leash.  Also let the puppy get used to
pulling things.  Start out with a small 2x4 (6 inches long) and let it
drag the 2x4 around behind its harness for a while.  The emphasis is
NOT on weight, just on having fun dragging a VERY LIGHT weight behind
it.  It is important to realize that one can injure a puppy's bones,
structure, and spirit by doing too much!

To train adult dogs, or continue the puppy training as an adult, is
relatively simple.  Some dogs are natural pullers, others are not.
Some dogs take right to the harness the first time, and other dogs,
even ones from reputable breeders, may take extensive training.  You
just never know.

It is vital to get the dog to lean out and keep the line between it
and you taut.  Some dogs have a real problem with this, others do not.
For problem dogs, the cause usually is due to the dog not liking you
to be behind it.  If you do have trouble, there are a variety of
methods you can use.  As long as you make training a fun game, and you
make the dog understand what you want it to do, training will progress
quickly, even for stubborn dogs, like Siberians.  Fortunately, they
LIKE to pull, so their stubbornness is not a problem here.  Sometimes
getting them to STOP pulling is!

Some mushers feel that it is best to train dogs to pull lots of
weight, then speed comes naturally in a race without the weight.
Others feel that speed and endurance training is best.  Still others
feel that a combination works best, similar to the combination
training for the musher.  Training for speed and endurance by mushing
shorter distances (under 10 miles, sometimes even 3 or 4 miles) at top
speed and up hills is beneficial.  Loping along at 3 or 4 miles an
hour for 15 or 20 miles is also beneficial.  Both of these build
strength and endurance.  Pulling heavy weight for short distances is
also quite good, particularly for wheel dogs (the ones hitched closest
to the sled).  For this, try a plastic tub to which you can add
plastic weights (the ones from barbell sets will have the weights
printed on them).

Whichever method you use, remember to take it easy with your dogs and
not push them to hard, and never, NEVER, lose your temper with your
dogs.  Remember that this is supposed to be fun for both you and the
dogs.  George Attla, a famous musher once said, "If the dogs make a
mistake while out on the trail remember that it is not the dogs that
have made the mistake.  It is you."  For additional training
information (with much more detail than is practical to provide here),
see the references.

10. Training lead dogs

To successfully mush, one must have a good lead dog (or dogs).  This
dog will take your commands for regulating speed and direction for the
entire team.  Naturally, if you are driving only one dog, that will be
your lead dog.

Training lead dogs is too complex to really do it justice here.  The
basics are you want the dog to learn to turn right, left, speed up,
and slow down on voice command.  You also want the dog to bypass
interesting detours and distractions.  In addition to the basic
commands already introduced (see section 3), the dog must also be
taught the commands below:

       kissing sound : Speed up (or other appropriate sound)
       on-by         : Go by a fork in the trail, other dogs, or
                       other distractions without detour

All commands are spoken in a firm, calm, not too loud voice.

During training, you must be certain to use varied turns and trails to
be sure that the dog is really executing the commands rather than
following a well worn path.  You must also anticipate the turn and
issue the command at the correct time from the *dog's* perspective.
Finally, some people get confused when issuing the right/left
commands, particularly in the excitement of a race.  Some mushers tape
the commands on the front of their sleds, on the right and left sides.
You may want to do this while beginning on the sled.

To train a dog to execute these commands with regularity is not too
difficult.  To train a dog to do this during the excitement of a race
with lots of distractions is more difficult.  One possible way to
approach training is to start out on foot when the dog is a puppy.
Keep the lessons varied, quick, and fun.  Be certain to do the lessons
in a variety of environments, with and without distractions.  When the
dog is old enough to pull weight (about one year to 18 months, get
advice from your veterinarian), you may wish to graduate to cross
country skiis.  The dog will learn to execute commands in snowy
conditions, and at higher speeds.  Once you have your lead dog well
trained and pulling your sled, you will find that other untrained,
young, dogs can be very easily added to your team as your lead dog
will "correct" the new dog's mistakes, usually faster and better than
you can.

This is one way in which lead dogs can be trained.  Consult the
references and experienced mushers (if you can find any) for
additional information.

11.  Training for weight pulling

Here emphasis is on strength and pulling straight no matter
how difficult.  Most of the mushing books in the references discuss
weight pulling training.

12.  Training for skijoring

Skijoring is you on cross country skis and the dogs pulling you.  YOU
MUST BE A VERY GOOD CROSS COUNTRY SKIER.  This is a must.  Before
attaching dogs, cross country ski all over the place, on a wide
variety of terrain.  Learn to fall in a controlled way.  You will
eventually need to do this when skijoring.  You will need to learn to
turn quickly and ski in control at high speeds.  Skiing downhill in
cross country skis is a good way to simulate skijoring speeds.

The dog(s) must be well trained as well.  Train all of them as lead
dogs.  They need to know and obey all of the commands very well
(especially whoa!).  The references all include information about this
fast growing sport.

13.  Health, diet, and care -- Sled Dog Specifics (briefly)

Sled dogs are athletes.  They are also remarkably healthy.  It is
important to realize that because sled dogs are athletes, they require
special attention in at least two specific areas.

Probably one of the most important aspects for caring for sled dogs is
the foot.  You should inspect your dog's feet regularly.  The skin of
the pad should feel tough, but pliable, be resistant to abrasions and
lacerations, and be free from cracks, dryness, or scarring.  Also
inspect the nails of the foot carefully.  Nails can help the dog grip
ice, but if too long, they can cause serious foot injury.  According
to Miki Collins in _Dog Driver_, if the nails are long enough to force
the toes upward when the dog is standing on a hard, level surface,
clip them.  Nails that are too long can get caught and ripped out on
the trail, or they can cause toes to break.  Both of these injuries
can be quite serious, and they are certainly painful.

The subject of diet should also be touched on here.  Most mushers feed
a high stress, high energy diet during mushing season, and switch to a
"maintenance" diet during the "off" season.  For example, one
experienced musher mixes Science Diet Performance dry with canned
during mushing season.  This is a high fat, high protein food.  Some
mushers even mix food in with lots of water hours before a race to
encourage drinking.  Dogs must be very well hydrated.  During the off
season, the musher in this example feeds Science Diet Maintenance
canned mixed with either Science Diet Maintenance dry or Eukanuba dry.
During the mushing season, the dogs are using all components of the
food that is fed.  During the off season, there is no need for such
high energy food, and in fact, high protein foods can cause kidney
trouble later in life when not fed in moderation.

14.  Final remarks

Hopefully, this brief summary has been helpful to you.  Even if you do
not want to get involved in mushing yourself, try and find mushing
events in your area.  It is wonderful to see the handsome dogs
enjoying doing what they were bred for.

15.  References

15.1.  Recommended books for mushing, weight pulling, and skijoring:

Levorsen, Bella, ed.  _Mush!  A Beginner's Manual of Sled Dog
Training_.  Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers, Inc.  Arner Publications, 1976.
ISBN 0-914124-06-4.

Collins, Miki and Julie.  _Dog Driver.  A Guide for the Serious
Musher_.  Alpine Publications, 1991.  ISBN 0-931866-48-0.

Flanders, Noel K. _The Joy of Running Sled Dogs_. Alpine Publications,
1989.  ISBN 0-931866-39-1.

Fishback, Lee and Mel.  _Novice Sled Dog Training_.  13th printing,
Raymond Thomson Company, 1989.

15.3.  Recommended breed books:

Demidoff, Lorna B. and Michael Jennings.  _The Complete Siberian
Husky_.  Howell Book House, 1978.  ISBN 0-87605-314-2.

Riddle, Maxwell and Beth J. Harris.  _The New Complete Alaskan
Malamute_.  Howell Book House, 1990.  ISBN 0-87605-008-9.

15.4.  Recommended racing and history:

Sherwonit, Bill.  _Iditarod, The Great Race to Nome_.  Alaska
Northwest Books, 1991.  ISBN 0-88240-411-3.

Steger, Will and Jon Bowermaster.  _Crossing Antarctica_.  Alfred A.
Knopf, Inc., 1991.  ISBN 0-394-58714-6.

15.6.  Periodicals about sled dogs and mushing

The Siberian Quarterly
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO   80033-3299

The Malamute Quarterly
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO  80033-3299

Mushing.
The All Season International Magazine for Dog-Driving Sports
P.O. Box 149
Ester, AK  99725

15.7.  Recommended places to order equipment:

Black Ice, Konari Outfitters, Tun-Dra Outfitters and Ikon Outfitters:
all addresses are in Catalogue section of the Annotated References FAQ.


K.  Gaming Dogs.

1.  Frisbee

There are serious competition trials for dogs playing frisbee.

2.  Flyball

Thanks to Ian J. Hogg.

Flyball is a team sport for dogs.  It is a relay race with 4 dogs on a
team.  The dogs jump over 4 hurdles spaced 10 ft apart and then
step/jump/throw themselves into a spring loaded box that shoots out a
tennis ball.  The dog catches the tennis ball and then runs back over
the 4 hurdles.  When the dog crosses the starting line the next dog
goes.  The first team to have all 4 dogs run without errors wins the
heat.  There are three heats per race.  The winner of each heat
receives 2 points towards their standing in the tournament.  The dogs
earn points towards flyball titles based on the teams time:

  less than 32 secs:       Each dog receives 1 point
  less than 28 secs:       Each dog receives 5 points
  less than 24 secs:       Each dog receives 25 points.

The titles the dogs can earn are
  FD   Flyball Dog          20 (25?) points
  FDX  Flyball Dog Excellant 100 points
  FDCH Flyball Dog Champion  500 points

The really good times run about 19 seconds.  The hurdles' height are
dependent on the height of the dogs in the team -- 5" below the
shoulder height of the shortest dog.  10" is the minimum height and
16" is the maximum height.

Anyone with a dog that loves balls can give it a try.  Check to see if
obedience schools in your area have teams.


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This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
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